Print designing and crafting has always been an essential part of the textile sector. Among all techniques, hand block print has its own value and prestige. Fabric industry has huge demand for hand printed fabric as nothing can compete with the beauty of hand block print fabric.
The block pattern and hand printed fabric is an ubiquitous appearance in home decor, whether it’s adorning throw cushions, furnishing fabric, or dining napkins. Despite its beauty and appeal, this cloth recounts a tangled past that spans centuries and demonstrates the power of artistry throughout the face of colonialism.
Block prints art brings pride to India—the lot of artistic work of dyeing with printing a cloth through a piece of wood has already been refined over centuries. Whether it’s Rajasthan’s remarkable sanganeri print fabric or Dabu print, which also employs the mud printing approach, or Gujarat oriented Ajrakh, that also features geometric themes, every hand block print represents the nation’s vast legacy and rich history—after all, India is among the biggest producers and distributors of hand block print fabric.
But are you aware of its evolution from its origin to the present? If not, then this post would help you to know so read on.
Rich History And Background
The origin place of hand block printing is 4000 years old China. After China, it spread across other Asian nations and the remaining part of the world. However, the first evidence of block printing is in literature with the name of the Diamond Sutra. This writing is three centuries old from the Gutenberg Bible. The tale of how India came to the forefront of block printing is still not clear.
Another idea states that block imprinted textiles origins can be traced towards the Indus Valley culture, between 3500 & 1300 BC. clothes and fabrics, particularly cotton, have been exported from the Harappan era. During the investigation of Mohenjo-daro place, scholars found some needles, pins, spools, and cotton fibers designed with Madder. The producers use the madder plant’s root to get the dye of the hues of red.
Art of Hand Blocked Printing And Mughal Era In India
However, researchers believe that the tale in India begins with Bbur, a descendant of Ghengis Khan. Only through Mughal supervision could block printing develop in India. Across their reign, Mughal kings lavished patronage on the arts, and also the Mughal manner helped define large sections of Indian creativity as we understand it today. The Mughals popularized the complex floral themes seen in hand block imprinted fabrics from Rajasthan.
The Mughal rulers were particularly fond of block printing. The monarch who created the Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan, was renowned for his extravagant taste in fabrics. With Mughal sponsorship, the whole textile industry prospered, and so many artisans are still operating in the same historic monuments of Gujarat & Rajasthan which were sponsored by the Mughals throughout their rule.
Hand block printing on cotton fabric started with Rajasthan and now Gujarat is also a center of it. Nowadays, this art is also available in West Bengal, Andhra Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Punjab, Maharashtra and Uttar Pradesh.
Hand-Block Printing Art Throughout The British India
The post-Mughal period witnessed an increase in European authority accumulation throughout India and concluding with the British Raj, which reigned until 1947. Because of the growth of European modernity, Britain started exporting fabrics to India. This was causing local weaving and designers to close and consumers to purchase cheap replicas of their formerly renowned fabrics. The British quest for total control frequently resulted in violence. They practically hacked off the fingertips of numerous craftsmen in India.
Craft of Hand Block Printing In Rajasthan
At present we have villages in Gujarat, Andhra Pradesh, and Rajasthan that use the same nearly a century old block printing technology. Amongst them is the Chippa group in Rajasthan, which is well-known for its Bagru prints. The foundation fabric is a combination of fuller’s soil and turmeric. Later, artists utilize natural colors such as alum, pomegranate blossoms, and indigo for printing purposes. The key distinguishing feature here is that the craftsmen imprint the patterns on special hues like off-white or beige foundation fabric. And designers develop this material through the Fuller’s soil. later spread it on fabric throughout the processing. Their printing method is simple, and it is the greatest eco friendly printing approach available.
Sanganer is known for its Calico works known by its dual color prints done continuously in diagonally rows and Doo Rookhi designs, while Bagru is known because of its Syahi Begar & Dabu designs which come with yellow and black color and are performed using the resist printmaking process. This comes on both sides of the textile. Sikar & Shekhawat designs have themes of horses, camels, peacocks, and lions, while Barmer designs show red chiles and trees with a blue-black border.
Present Atructure of Art
Block printing processes are still virtually the same since Mughals’ reign, at least when it comes to printing by hand. Even at present, the majority of craftsmen does block-printing on fabrics under one of three aspects: direct printing, resist printing, or discharge printing.
Kutch, Bhavnagar, Dhamadka, Jamnagar, Rajkot, Vasna, Porbandar, and Jetpur, are well-known locations in Gujarat. Ajrakh prints are produced in the village of Dhamadka and include geometric designs with natural colors. Prominent Kutch themes include red and black images of people, animals, and birds.
Despite being time consuming, hand block printing is in demand till date. Art lovers and the textile industry hugely appreciate this craft and hand printed clothes. Jaipur’s sanganeri print fabric is the world’s prominent center of hand block print. People also considered block print cotton fabric as sustainable material.
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